In short
- Start at home. Read the car’s MOT history and check whether it has been recalled, as GOV.UK advises[1].
- The MOT record can’t show money owed on the car, write-offs or theft. A separate history check can, and Citizens Advice puts one at up to £20 (as of 10 October 2026)[7].
- At the viewing, go in daylight and ask to see the car cold. Ask for the original V5C, the registration document often called the logbook[6].
- Tax doesn’t come with the car[6], and you need insurance before you drive it away[5].
- If you’re being pushed to decide quickly, it’s fine to take your time.
On this page
You can do all of this before you see the car, from the advert and the number plate.
Read the MOT history
Use GOV.UK’s free MOT history check[2] or MOT Wise to see each test, fault, advisory and mileage reading. An advisory is a tester’s note about wear that may need work soon. Look for repeat fails, the same advisory coming back, mileage that doesn’t add up and gaps. Our guide on how to check MOT history shows how. What a good MOT history looks like shows what to expect at each age.
Check the DVLA record
DVLA’s vehicle enquiry shows the car’s tax and MOT status[3]. Check that the details match what the seller has told you.
Run a vehicle history check
The MOT record can’t show money owed on the car, insurance write-offs or theft. A paid history check can, and Citizens Advice puts the cost at up to £20 (as of 10 October 2026)[7]. What an MOT history can’t tell you covers each gap.
Check for recalls
A recall is when the maker finds a safety fault in a model and fixes it, usually at no cost to you. GOV.UK’s recall check takes the number plate[4]. Our guide to vehicle recalls explains what the answer means.
Set a total budget
The price is not the whole cost. Allow for road tax and insurance. Add a first service, the repairs the record points to, and new tyres if advisories mention wear. Add the next MOT too, if it is due soon. The Running costs tab in an MOT Wise report shows yearly cost ranges. They cover fuel, road tax, servicing, tyres and brakes, and likely repairs. They leave out insurance and loss of value.
Get an insurance quote
Get a quote before you view. Insurance varies with the car, its age, where you live and who drives. A car that looks cheap can cost more to insure than you expect.
Ask before you travel, and write down the answers. Start with the number plate. Ask whether any money is still owed on the car, whether the seller is the registered keeper, and why they are selling. Each answer should fit what the MOT record and the V5C show.
The V5C names the registered keeper. It is not proof of who owns the car, so ask for a signed receipt as well[8]. Our guide to questions to ask a seller says what a straight answer sounds like.
Go in daylight, and ideally when it is dry[6]. Ask to see the car with a cold engine. If it is already warm, ask why[8]. Bring a torch and, if you can, someone who knows cars.
Walk round the car, tick as you go
0 of 6 done
Inside the car and the paperwork, tick as you go
0 of 8 done
For an electric or hybrid car, see electric and hybrid cars and the MOT for what is different.
Check you are insured to drive the car before you set off. The law requires insurance to drive on UK roads[5]. Citizens Advice suggests driving for at least 15 minutes on different roads[6].
Include some rougher road surfaces if you can. Smooth roads alone can hide suspension and steering problems. Our test drive checklist covers what to feel and listen for.
The law treats dealers and private sellers differently. A dealer sale is covered by the Consumer Rights Act 2015, which includes a short period to reject a faulty car[10]. A private seller has to describe the car accurately[10].
Our guide to your rights when buying a used car has the time limits and where to get help. It is general information, not legal advice.
Agree how you will pay
Cash has no fees but little protection. A debit card may allow a chargeback. A credit card can give Section 75 cover on goods costing £100 to £30,000 (as of 10 October 2026)[6]. Ask the seller to put anything they promise in writing.
Check DVLA has been told
In a normal private sale, the seller tells DVLA and gives you the green new keeper slip[1]. The new V5C is then posted to you.
None of these proves anything on its own. Each is a reason to ask a question. A clear, specific answer with proof is what you are listening for.
| What you notice | What it can mean |
|---|---|
| The seller can’t allow a test drive | It can come down to insurance cover. What you could ask: Is there a way to arrange cover so I can drive it? |
| No independent inspection | The seller may have reasons of time or access. The record can’t say. What you could ask: Would another day or place suit you? An inspection report costs around £120 to £250 (as of 10 October 2026)[6]. |
| The dashboard mileage is far from the MOT record | A typing slip at a test, a replaced dashboard or a wound-back clock. The record can’t show which. What you could ask: Can you explain the reading at the test on that date? See how to spot mileage clocking. |
| No V5C, or details that don’t match | Without it you can’t check the seller’s details against DVLA’s records. What you could ask: Can I see the V5C before I travel, and before I pay? |
| Cash only, with pressure to decide today | Cash leaves little protection if something goes wrong. What you could ask: Can we pay a way that leaves a record, such as a bank transfer or card? |
| Dangerous faults on the record that the seller can’t explain | A fault graded dangerous means the car failed and could not be driven until it was fixed. A later pass can mean it was repaired. What you could ask: What was done about it, who did the work, and can I see the paperwork? See minor, major and dangerous MOT faults. |
Sleep on it if you are not sure. Get a repair quote for any fault the record or the viewing turned up. It puts a real figure on the cost, and a garage you choose yourself gives an independent view.
Then compare the total, the price plus likely repairs, with other cars. Already own a car? Our comparison tool puts it beside this one, with running costs and likely repair ranges. If you want a second opinion on a rating, how to read your risk rating explains what drives it.
Common questions
What should I check when looking at a used car?
Read its MOT history first, then check its tax and MOT status, run a vehicle history check and look for recalls. At the viewing, look over the body, tyres, lights and underneath, and read the V5C. Then take a test drive of at least 15 minutes.
Is the MOT history enough on its own?
No. It shows test results, faults and mileage. It does not show money owed on the car, insurance write-offs or theft. It also leaves out service history and the condition of the engine, clutch and gearbox.
How long should a test drive be?
Citizens Advice suggests at least 15 minutes on different roads. Check you are insured to drive the car before you set off.
Do I have to pay road tax when I get a used car?
Yes. Tax doesn’t pass to you with the car. You need to tax it yourself before you drive it on the road.
Do I get the same rights from a dealer and a private seller?
No. From a dealer you have a short window to reject a faulty car. From a private seller your claim rests on how the car was described.
Sources
- Vehicle registration: new and used vehicles. GOV.UK (DVLA).
- Check the MOT history of a vehicle. GOV.UK (DVSA).
- Get vehicle information from DVLA. GOV.UK (DVLA).
- Check if a vehicle, part or accessory has been recalled. GOV.UK (DVSA).
- Vehicle insurance. GOV.UK.
- Buying a used car. Citizens Advice.
- Buying a used car. Citizens Advice.
- Buying a Used Car: The Ultimate Checklist. RAC Drive, 2025.
- How to Buy a Car in the UK. AA Cars, 2026.
- The car I bought has a problem: what are my rights?. Which?.
