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Buying a used car

How to read your MOT Wise risk rating

Every MOT Wise report gives a car a risk rating, from Very Low to Very High. Here is what the levels mean, what moves the score, and what the rating can’t tell you.

Illustration: a gauge shaded from green to coral with a purple needle, beside a hatchback

In short

  • The risk rating is our summary of a car’s whole MOT record, from Very Low to Very High. It is not a pass or fail, a price or a verdict.
  • It comes from a score out of 100. Each level covers a fixed score range, and a few serious records set a lowest rating whatever the score adds up to.
  • A Medium rating does not mean a bad car. It means the record has some things worth asking about before you decide.
  • The confidence meter, from Limited to Strong, is separate. It says how much data the rating rests on, not how risky the car is.
  • The rating reads the MOT record only. It can’t see money owed on the car, write-offs, service history, or the engine, clutch and gearbox[1].
On this page
  1. What the risk rating is
  2. The five levels
  3. What drives the score
  4. Using the rating when you look at a car
  5. What the rating can’t tell you
  6. How confidence relates to the rating
  7. Common questions
  8. Sources

When you check a car on MOT Wise, it gets a risk rating from Very Low to Very High. It is our summary of the car’s full MOT history: every test, every graded fault[4] and every mileage reading on record. For cars, it also takes in a small adjustment for how the model usually does.

We call the label the rating and the number behind it the score. The score is out of 100. The rating is there to help you decide, not to decide for you. It says how much attention the car’s record needs.

Every report links to its score page from under the rating (“See every factor behind this score”). That page shows the score on a ruler with its band, and what the score is made of, row by row. Open a row to see the facts from the record behind it.

Each rating covers a fixed range of the score, and the ranges are the same for every car. A few serious records set a lowest rating. When that happens, the score is lifted to the bottom of that rating’s range. The list of factors further down says which.

Very Low

Score 0 to 19

Few or no concerns in the record: mostly passes, faults followed by passes, mileage that rises steadily and no dangerous faults. A short record can score Very Low too, because there is little in it to count.

What to look at: The usual steps for any used car still apply: a vehicle history check, a test drive, the service history. Check the confidence meter too. It says how much the rating rests on.

Low

Score 20 to 39

Small things only, such as a few advisories that did not come back, or one fail followed by a pass. The mileage may be a little above or below what is usual for the age.

What to look at: Read the faults listed in the report and ask the seller about them. An independent inspection can be sensible on any used car.

Medium

Score 40 to 59

Some things worth asking about. These can be the same advisories coming back, a run of fails in one area, or mileage that does not quite add up. Not alarming, but not clean either.

What to look at: An independent inspection can be worth booking at this level. Use the seller questions from the report, and get repair quotes for the faults it lists before you talk price.

High

Score 60 to 79

Serious things in the record. It may show dangerous faults, problems that keep coming back, or unusual mileage. Several factors have added up.

What to look at: An independent inspection helps here, and so does the paperwork for any serious fault: ask what was done and who did it. Get written repair quotes so you know the total cost, the price plus likely repairs.

Very High

Score 80+

Serious warning signs in several areas, such as repeated faults, dangerous faults, or problems that got worse from one test to the next. The record gives you several serious things to look into before you decide.

What to look at: Ask the seller what was done about each serious fault, and for the paperwork. A full inspection and written quotes from an independent garage give you the real cost to set beside other cars.

A Medium rating does not mean “bad car”. It means the record has some signs worth looking into before you decide. At every level, the rating covers the MOT record only, so a vehicle history check and a test drive still apply.

The score is built from the car’s full MOT history. Each factor below adds or takes away points, and the total is put on a 0 to 100 scale. Faults in parts that keep the car safe count for more than faults in parts that are expected to wear out.

On a car’s score page, the factors that apply to that car are grouped under “What the score is made of”. Here is everything the score looks at.

Dangerous faults

Anything a tester marked as dangerous. Faults on the last two MOTs count the most.

  • A dangerous fault on one of the last two MOTs adds a lot of points. Older ones still count, but less.
  • A dangerous fault in a part that keeps the car safe, such as the brakes, counts for more than one in, say, a number plate.
  • Rust counts here too, when it is getting worse or is noted in three or more places on the car.
  • Some records set the lowest rating a car can get, whatever the other points add up to. Two or more dangerous faults on the last two MOTs mean Very High.
  • High is the lowest rating for a recent dangerous fault with a repeat fail in the same area. The same goes for rust getting worse in two or more parts of the frame or underside.
  • It also goes for a latest MOT that failed with a dangerous fault and has not been passed since.

Parts that failed more than once

The same part failing on more than one MOT. Parts that keep the car safe count the most.

  • Repeats in parts that keep the car safe, such as the brakes, steering and suspension, count the most. Parts that wear out, such as tyres, bulbs and wipers, count the least.
  • Repeat fails in three or more parts of the car add more. So do faults in many different parts, or most faults landing in one safety area.
  • Repairs that are harder to put right, such as rust near a suspension mounting, count for more than quick fixes.
  • A fault that is common on this model at this age counts slightly less. A rare one counts slightly more.
  • On electric and hybrid cars, tyre and suspension faults count a little more, because these cars tend to be heavier.

Warnings left unfixed

An advisory in the same area coming up on three or more MOTs in a row. An advisory is a warning that did not fail the test.

  • An advisory is a note from the tester about something that has not failed yet but may do. One in the same area on three or more MOTs in a row adds points.
  • A warning noted on two or more MOTs in a row, in an area that then failed, adds more.
  • So does a fault marked more serious on a later MOT, such as an advisory that became a major fault.
  • Warnings left open in several different parts of the car add more than a single missed item.

Number of advisories

Lots of advisories on one MOT or on the latest MOT, and whether the count is rising.

  • Eight or more advisories on one MOT add a few points. Four or more on the latest MOT add a few more.
  • A count that rises from one MOT to the next adds points. A count that falls brings the score down.

Recent MOT fails

How many MOTs ended in a fail. Recent fails count for more than old ones.

  • One fail among many passes counts for little. Fails on the latest MOTs count the most.
  • Failing, then passing a quick retest, time after time adds a little. It can mean repairs tend to wait for the MOT.
  • More faults on each MOT now than in the early years adds a little too.

Mileage readings that don’t add up

Readings that go down, a year or more with almost no miles, or sudden big jumps.

  • A reading lower than an earlier one adds the most. A drop of under 300 miles doesn’t count.
  • A drop that looks like one mistyped reading counts for less. That is when the next MOT puts it right, or one changed digit would explain it.
  • Under 500 miles in a year or more adds a little. The car may have been standing unused.
  • A year far above the car’s usual pace adds a little.

Gaps and MOT status

Stretches with no MOT on record, and whether the car has a current MOT.

  • A gap of more than 15 months between MOTs adds points. A gap of over two years adds more.
  • A stretch the car’s own certificate covered, such as a two-year Northern Ireland certificate, is not a gap.
  • A gap can be harmless. The car may have been declared off the road (SORN). It still means less is known about those years.
  • A gap the 2020 COVID rule explains is not scored. MOTs due from 30 March to 31 July 2020 were put back six months.
  • No current MOT adds points. The longer it has run out, the more it adds. A car left unused can need work to pass.
  • A latest MOT that failed and has not been passed since adds points too. The longer it has waited, the more it adds.

Old warnings not listed at the latest MOT

Advisories noted at two or more MOTs in a row that were not listed at the latest MOT.

  • This only counts when the warnings were still noted a few months before the latest MOT.
  • Repairs needed to pass the retest of the same MOT don’t count here. They are already scored as fails.
  • Most often the latest MOT was a retest, which only rechecks the fail.

Age and miles a year

Older cars score a little higher. Very high or very low miles a year add a little.

  • Age adds a small amount. For an older car that has passed many MOTs with few fails, age counts for less.
  • Average miles a year add nothing. Very high or very low use adds a little, and a little more on a car in its first few years.
  • A battery electric car covering very high miles adds a little more.

Critical recalls for this model

Recalls we grade critical for this model and age add a few points.

  • A recall is when the maker asks owners to bring vehicles back to fix a fault. It only counts here if it can apply to this car’s fuel and engine size.
  • The points count the model’s recall. Where the maker shares its data, DVSA’s record for the car says whether a safety recall is still waiting; the report shows that line.

A steady record

Passes with few or no fails, no gaps and steady mileage bring the score down.

  • A run of passes with no fails, no gaps and steady mileage takes points off.
  • So does a run of MOTs passed first time after earlier trouble. This only counts when the car is being driven at least 1,000 miles a year.

Similar cars (cars only)

How cars of the same make, model, fuel type and age do in national MOT results. These figures are about the model, not this car, and they move the score up or down. Vans, motorcycles and minibuses are scored without it.

  • This looks at how often this model fails at this age, how many are still on the road, which faults tend to come together, and where this car’s mileage sits.
  • It also looks at how cars with a similar MOT record did at their next MOT. That can move the score up or down, but only by a limited amount.
  • For a car aged 3 to 5, whose record is still short, the score is also blended with how often this model usually fails at that age.
  • Vans, motorcycles and minibuses are scored without any of this, because these figures are built from cars.

The detail of how each factor is worked out is on our methodology page. How MOT Wise works covers the data behind it.

Treat the rating as a starting point for your questions. The report lists questions to ask the seller for each car, drawn from its own record. Open the score page to see which factors added points. If you can explain one, you can weigh it differently. For example, you may know a gap in the record was because the car was SORN (declared off the road).

The rating can change as the record grows. Recent MOTs count for more than old ones. A new fail adds points, and a run of passes can bring the score down.

The rating does not give a price. The Running costs tab in the report shows yearly cost ranges. Our used car buying checklist covers the rest of the job.

The rating is built from the MOT history, which records what the MOT checked on the day. The MOT does not cover the engine, clutch or gearbox[1], and a test record is not evidence of general mechanical condition[2]. So the rating can’t tell you about:

  • Engine internals, such as the timing belt, head gasket or turbocharger.
  • The gearbox and clutch: smooth engagement, slipping or unusual noises.
  • Heating, air conditioning, windows and other electrics the MOT does not test.
  • Accident damage that was repaired but did not touch the parts the MOT checks.
  • Service history, gaps in servicing and missed maintenance.
  • Money still owed on the car, theft, or an insurance write-off.
  • What the car is worth. The rating is not a price or a valuation.

A car with no MOT history yet, such as one under three years old, has no rating in its report. The comparison tool gives it a provisional rating built from similar cars, not its own record. Vans, motorcycles and minibuses are scored without the similar-cars part, because those figures are built from cars.

For the rest of the picture, add a test drive, the service record and a vehicle history check. A history check can show money owed, theft and write-offs[3]. What an MOT history can’t tell you covers each gap. Minor, major and dangerous MOT faults explains the grades the rating reads.

Every report also shows a confidence meter, called “How sure we are”, with five steps from Limited to Strong. For a van, motorcycle or minibus it is called “MOT history completeness”. Confidence is about how much the data can tell us, not about risk. A car can have a High rating with Strong confidence, where plenty of data clearly shows problems. Or it can have a Medium rating with Weak confidence, where little data leaves the picture uncertain.

Confidence is lower when there are few MOT tests to go on, or gaps in the history. It is also lower when mileage readings don’t match, when the MOT has run out, or with little data on similar cars. Tests that list no faults, as Northern Ireland tests do, count for less. A record made only of those reads Weak. When the meter reads Weak or Limited, the rating is less certain. The true picture could be better or worse than shown.

Common questions

What does a Medium risk rating mean?

It means the car’s record has some things worth asking about. Examples are advisories that kept coming back, or mileage that doesn’t quite add up. It does not mean a bad car. Read the faults the report lists and ask the seller about them.

Is the risk rating a pass or a fail?

It is not a pass or a fail. It is a summary of the whole MOT history, from Very Low to Very High, built from a score out of 100. It does not tell you what to decide.

What is the difference between risk and confidence?

Risk is what the record shows. Confidence is how much data the rating rests on. A short record can give a Low or Very Low rating with Weak or Limited confidence, because there is little to go on.

Can a car’s risk rating change?

Yes. The score is built from the whole MOT record, so a new test can move it. A new fail adds points, and a run of passes can bring the score down.

Does the risk rating include finance, write-offs or theft?

No. It reads the MOT record only. A separate vehicle history check can show money owed, theft and write-offs.

Sources

  1. Getting an MOT: the MOT test. GOV.UK.
  2. MOT testing guide for test stations: introduction. DVSA, 2026.
  3. Buying a used car. Citizens Advice.
  4. MOT rule changes: 20 May 2018. GOV.UK (DVSA and DfT), 2018.

Put it into practice

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Enter a number plate to see what its MOT history shows: faults, patterns, mileage trends and a plain-English risk rating.

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